History of Pie and Mash
Where Did It Begin?
It began with the Pieman. The Pieman’s pies were largely filled with cheap fresh eels as there was an abundant supply from the River Thames. Eels were a staple food for many of the poor in London and recipes for eels were widely known and published. As the River Thames became more polluted, Dutch eel barges brought eels to London. The barges moored on the Thames and were given exclusive rights in 1699 to sell the eels – it was their reward for helping to feed the people of London after the Great Fire in 1666.
Live eels were generally sold on the streets – as was anything portable. The Pieman would often source very cheap dead eels rather than fresh live ones (eels that hadn’t survived in the holding tanks filled with water from the River Thames). Basically, they would fill their pies with whatever they could get hold of – fruit, dire quality mutton, eels, frequently smothered in pepper to disguise the rank filling – they would then sell to the public to such calls as ‘Who’s for a mutton pie, or an eel pie?’, ‘Hote eel pyes’.
So, this is where it all started, with the Pieman, the early street vendors who in Victorian times would hawk for business on the streets of London, in the taverns, fairs and at the races, with a large tray of pies on top of their head, or strapped to the front of their chest selling pies for a penny (1d). There was one draw back here: The Pieman was often responsible for outbreaks of food poisoning which in those days could be fatal.
The Birth of the First Pie & Mash Shops
The Pieman was unable to keep up with the ever -increasing strain upon his resources. Street trade diminished with the emergence of London’s pie shops, whose owners allegedly enticed customers in with pies that were often larger than those traditionally sold on the street.
The first Pie and Mash shop, or Pie & Eel House as they were known back then, was recorded in 1844, set up by Henry Blanchard at 101 Union Street, SE1 0LQ. The shop sold both eel and meat pies at a penny each, and added the accompaniment of cheap freshly mashed potatoes, or fresh eels, and liquor (a parsley sauce made from the eel juice), to become an inexpensive, value for money , sit down, nourishing meal. By 1874, 33 Pie and Mash shops were listed.
These pie and mash shops became very popular with the poor working- class people, particularly providing a good staple nourishing meal for workers and dockers. Quality of the food was much improved upon compared to the days of the Pieman and didn’t kill off the customers, ensuring repeat business. The shops flourished and spread across the East End of London.
Eventually, with the decline of fresh eels, mutton and inexpensive beef became the more popular filling for the pies. Jellied and stewed eels were still served as side dishes, or on their own.
Recent discoveries by local historian, Neil Crossfield, has revealed some interesting facts about the Arments lineage.
Arments first pie and mash shop at 386 Walworth Road – purchased from the Evans family in 1914 by Emily and William Arment – was first listed to an eel business 1881…possibly making Arments the longest running pie and mash shop!
In a notice in the Liverpool Mercury dated Saturday 24 December 1881. This shows Sarah Elizabeth Bellew at this time petitioning for liquidation of her stewed eel business.
A year later the 1882 Post Office Street Directory reveals that an Edward Bellew (possibly Sarah’s son) is running a soup house here. Whether he sold eels and pies isn’t recorded. What we do know however is that by 1885 number 386 Walworth Road is a pie house run by Thomas Robert Porter. Trade directories show that Thomas Porter continues to run his shop until at least 1906.
The 1907 Directory shows that the shop at 386 Walworth Road changed hands and was now managed by George Albert Harding. By 1909 according the Post Office London Directory the shop was in the hands of his wife Annie. The Harding’s brief tenure ended after just three years because in 1910 the directory shows us that Richard Evans took over the running of 386 Walworth Road whilst continuing to manage his other shop in Chrisp Street. Evans had already been running a pie house further along Walworth Road at number 367, along with his other shop situated in Poplar.
