Posted on March 16th, 2024
Pie and mash has been a staple meal for Londoners for around 180 years now!
Where Did It Begin?
It began with the Pieman. The Pieman’s pies were largely filled with cheap fresh eels as there was an abundant supply from the River Thames. Eels were a staple food for many of the poor in London and recipes for eels were widely known and published. As the River Thames became more polluted, Dutch eel barges brought eels to London. The barges moored on the Thames and were given exclusive rights in 1699 to sell the eels – it was their reward for helping to feed the people of London after the Great Fire in 1666.
Live eels were generally sold on the streets – as was anything portable. The Pieman would often source very cheap dead eels rather than fresh live ones (eels that hadn’t survived in the holding tanks filled with water from the River Thames). Basically, they would fill their pies with whatever they could get hold of – fruit, dire quality mutton, eels, frequently smothered in pepper to disguise the rank filling – they would then sell to the public to such calls as ‘Who’s for a mutton pie, or an eel pie?’, ‘Hote eel pyes’.
So, this is where it all started, with the Pieman, the early street vendors who in Victorian times would hawk for business on the streets of London, in the taverns, fairs and at the races, with a large tray of pies on top of their head, or strapped to the front of their chest selling pies for a penny (1d). There was one draw back here: The Pieman was often responsible for outbreaks of food poisoning which in those days could be fatal.
The Pieman street vendor carrying a tray of pies on his head.
The Birth of the First Pie & Mash Shops
The Pieman was unable to keep up with the ever -increasing strain upon his resources. Street trade diminished with the emergence of London’s pie shops, whose owners allegedly enticed customers in with pies that were often larger than those traditionally sold on the street.
The first Pie and Mash shop, or Pie & Eel House as they were known back then, was recorded in 1844, set up by Henry Blanchard at 101 Union Street, SE1 0LQ. The shop sold both eel and meat pies at a penny each, and added the accompaniment of cheap freshly mashed potatoes, or fresh eels, and liquor (a parsley sauce made from the eel juice), to become an inexpensive, value for money , sit down, nourishing meal. By 1874, 33 Pie and Mash shops were listed.
These pie and mash shops became very popular with the poor working- class people, particularly providing a good staple nourishing meal for workers and dockers. Quality of the food was much improved upon compared to the days of the Pieman and didn’t kill off the customers, ensuring repeat business. The shops flourished and spread across the East End of London.
Eventually, with the decline of fresh eels, mutton and inexpensive beef became the more popular filling for the pies. Jellied and stewed eels were still served as side dishes, or on their own.
Recent discoveries by local historian, Neil Crossfield, has revealed some interesting facts about the Arments lineage.
Arments first pie and mash shop at 386 Walworth Road – purchased from the Evans family in 1914 by Emily and William Arment – was first listed to an eel business 1881…possibly making Arments the longest running pie and mash shop!
In a notice in the Liverpool Mercury dated Saturday 24 December 1881. This shows Sarah Elizabeth Bellew at this time petitioning for liquidation of her stewed eel business.
A year later the 1882 Post Office Street Directory reveals that an Edward Bellew (possibly Sarah’s son) is running a soup house here. Whether he sold eels and pies isn’t recorded. What we do know however is that by 1885 number 386 Walworth Road is a pie house run by Thomas Robert Porter. Trade directories show that Thomas Porter continues to run his shop until at least 1906.
The 1907 Directory shows that the shop at 386 Walworth Road changed hands and was now managed by George Albert Harding. By 1909 according the Post Office London Directory the shop was in the hands of his wife Annie. The Harding’s brief tenure ended after just three years because in 1910 the directory shows us that Richard Evans took over the running of 386 Walworth Road whilst continuing to manage his other shop in Chrisp Street. Evans had already been running a pie house further along Walworth Road at number 367, along with his other shop situated in Poplar.
Emily Arment with Sister Liz, 386 Walworth Road, SE17
Arments Today
We are still a family run business, four generations on, and we are passionate about what we do. Our customers continue to experience delicious traditional pie, mash and liquor meals – made to the same secret family 100-year-old recipes, using only high- quality ingredients, without gravy browning, packers or fillers and served the traditional way.
Arments Recreation of the Eel Pie
In 2016, we thought we would recreate a piece of history: the original eel pie, with which the business of pie, mash and liquor began.
This is the first time in at least 45 years that eel pie had temporarily been on the menu and tried by a select few! We set about delving into our history and imagined ourselves transported back to 1914 when Roy’s Grandparents, William and Emily Arment, would have been baking, in a coal fired oven, a shop lit by gas lamps and saw dust on the floor, selling eel pies for 2d!
Outside horse drawn wagons would have clattered by along cobbled streets, the streets being packed with urchins and people buying goods and food from market stalls.
The eel pie went down a storm!
TRADITIONS, MYTHS AND LEGENDS
Pie and Mash Ordering Language – a unique language all of its own!
- One and one – a single, pie and mash
- One and two – a single pie and two mash
- Two and one – two pies and one mash
- Double Double – two pies and two mash
- Combinations of numbers for taking away;
- 8,4 and 4 – translates into 8 pies, 4 mash and 4 liquors!
Liquor made with Eel Juice – The liquor used to be made with the left- over eel juice. However, we have not included eel juice in our liquor in over 45 years. This is due to the decline in eel sales, we do not have sufficient eel juice to make all the liquor we need. Also, with the introduction of allergen awareness, eels are high on the allergen list so it would be not suitable to add even a tablespoon of eel juice to the liquor, leaving everyone to enjoy it.
Pie Crust up or Down?
The big debate! Whichever way you like it, there’s no denying that pie and mash is the ultimate London food – may be have a double double with one up and one down!
Gravy
Considered a big no no by many pie and mash fans! However, at Arments we do provide gravy (kept under the counter!) for those brave enough to ask and withstand the aghast and stares from other customers!
Mashed Potato
When it comes to pie and mash shop mash, the mash must be made the traditional way! No butter or milk, just fluffy freshly mashed potatoes with a little salt. It is also essential it is served scraped onto the side of the plate with a spatula – no ice cream scoops please!
Vinegar and Pepper
Traditionally malt vinegar, or malt chilli vinegar is served with pie, mash and eels, together with ground black pepper. Some of you may remember the Pharmacist, Tommy Knight, in Westmoreland Road – he provided the acetic acid for us for years so we could brew our own vinegar.
Fork, Spoon or Knife?
Do you prefer using a fork and spoon when devouring your pie and mash, or are you team knife all the way? According to some long-time fans, the lack of knives at certain establishments during World War I or fights between customers led to this interesting tradition. Whatever the reason, it certainly adds an extra element of charm to the dining experience! We at Arments have lost many a knife and would often buy our own knives back from the stalls at the Sunday market in Westmoreland Road!
Arments Moving with the Times Whilst Retaining Our Roots
While the sawdust on the shop floor is long gone, our standards haven’t changed – but we have moved with the times – our online ordering service and Licensed Seller Scheme have added a new level of convenience – and our traditionally based menu, along with the introduction of our vegan pie, reflect the changing demands and needs of our customers.
Arments Celebrating – Win Free Pie and Mash
We are pleased to be embracing the first ever National ‘n’ Pie Week! We feel pie and mash truly deserves its place in history, and to mark this wonderful week you have a chance to win free single pie and mash for you and a friend – just visit our business Facebook page and look out for the competition post.
In addition to celebrating National Pie ‘n’ Mash Week, it is our 110th birthday on April 14th so we are celebrating again! We will be celebrating in our shop on Saturday, April 13th – we look forward to welcoming the Pearly Queen of St Pancras, Diane Gould, who will be playing and singing along to old- time music, we have freebies to give away and your chance to win pie and mash for you and a friend. Please come along and join us if you can, we’d love to see you.
